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The formula takes the "net income" as calculated per the comments
above, and multiplies that monthly "extra" cash flow by 60 months,
then discounts it by a nationally published interest rate (currently 9%). That
represents five years worth of payments the IRS figures you could give it. To
that number you must add your "net worth" in your assets.
To calculate "net worth" you start by listing the value of all
assets. This is an opportunity to lower the ultimate amount you will pay the
government. The regulations require you to state the fair market value. By that
the IRS means the value if you could hold out for a while to get top dollar.
However, most experienced CPAs and lawyers list the "fire sale" value
if you had to sell quickly under great pressure, which is exactly what the IRS
is doing to you. Obviously, "fire sale" values are quite different
from "take your time" fair market value. As long as you can document
the values from independent third parties, you should be able to argue your
numbers, not the IRS figures.
Subtract from the total asset value any loans that predate the IRS lien. The
IRS will disallow or ignore any unsecured debts (regardless of date) and any
secured debts dated after their lien. They will also disallow any related state
tax obligations, even though the state obviously will not ignore them. Getting
the IRS to allow you to reflect any debts is often a difficult chore.
You will also need to add to this some intangible "assets" to
complete your net worth. For example, if you have credit cards with a $30,000
line of credit which currently have $25,000 of outstanding charges, the IRS will
ignore the $25,000 liability, but count the remaining $5,000 unused credit as an
"asset" for net worth purposes. In other words, the IRS assumes that
you could borrow off the card limit and give all the cash to the IRS.
This combination of "net worth" and five years of "cash
flow" as the IRS calculates them becomes the minimum amount that the IRS
will even consider to compromise your outstanding tax debt. While the IRS
prefers to get cash quickly from an Offer in Compromise, you can propose to pay
this amount in a few installments over a year or two. In general, if you can pay
the IRS in a lump sum within 15 to 30 days of notice of acceptance, then your
offer will have a better chance of being accepted.
You should keep in mind that you must make all tax filings and tax payments
on time as well as make all Offer in Compromise payments on time for five years
after acceptance. If you pay off the Offer in full but miss a tax payment or are
late on a tax filing anytime in the next five years, the entire original tax
debt that was written off (plus additional penalties and interest) will be
imposed again, and the IRS will never again consider waiving that debt. Since
the Offer is a discount that the IRS might give you, NOT something it is
required to give you, you cannot sue in any court to enforce it once you mess
up. You are essentially begging the IRS for undeserved mercy, which the IRS
agent may or may not choose to give initially, but which the IRS has an
immovable policy against if you miss anything for five years afterwards.